The Interactive BikeE

Wheels and Gears

Just some notes on the frustrating business of derailer compatibilities:
1. Shifter/derailer: ESP and Shimano are two fundamentally different designs. Both shifter and derailer must be ESP or non-ESP. Notably, ESP shifters pull about twice as much cable per "click." I prefer ESP's for long cable runs for this reason, as any tendency for the cable to hang up along the way is overcome by the larger amount of cable movement. Since the BikeE comes with an ESP shifter and derailer, you cannot just install an XTR derailer without replacing the shifter as well.
2. Derailer/chain: Derailers specified as 9-speed might not work as well with 7 or 8 speed systems because 9 speed chain is thinner. The wider chain might rub against the pulley cage unless the manufacturer designed for variability. According to SRAM's tech manual, the 9.0 will work with 8-speed chain, so a swap is no problem (as some posts have indicated).
3. Shifter/cassette: Naturally the number of gears indicated on the shifter should match the number on the cassette. However, spacing between the cogs on 7 and 8 speed systems is close enough that you can mix these items without big problems, other than a redundant position on the shifter or an inaccessible cog. 9 speed shifters must be used with 9 speed cassettes. Don't ask me about Campy 10 speed systems, as I've never twiddled one. 
4. Derailer/cassette: 8 and 9 speed systems require a greater amount of side-to-side movement than 7 speed set ups. 8/9 speed derailers will work on 7 speed cassette by simply limiting their range using the limit screws, but the reverse is not true.

My LBS showed me how to remove and replace the rear wheel so I could repair a flat when I have one.  You need to set the left SRAM shifter to 3 and the right SRAM shifter to 7.  Then you put the chain on the smallest of the chainrings and insert the wheel into the frame (note: you need to have the brakes open and out of the way).  You then use a 15mm open-end wrench to tighten the nuts, making sure the retainers are in the slot correctly before tightening it down fully.  Now slip the little plastic pulley like thing on the right side of the wheel with the chain and threaded end coming out of the pulley.  Hook up the shifter cable from the left shifter to the threaded end.  My connector has a metal spring clip that you press and simply insert the threaded rod.  There should be just a slight amount of slack in the cable.  Now twist the left side shifter from 3 to 1 and back a couple of times to make sure that it shifts smoothly.  You may have to make a slight adjustment to the end on the threaded rod to get it to work exactly right, but that is no big deal.  Finally with the rear wheel spinning move the right side shifter from 7 to 1 and back a couple of times to make sure it is adjusted correctly.  Now reconnect the brake cable and you're done.

You don't always have to remove a wheel to fix a flat. It's a pain to remove the bolt-on back wheel like that of many BikeEs. Here's how:

Without taking the wheel off the bike, use your tire irons to pull the bead of the tire off the rim on one side. (The bead is the edge of the tire.) Reach inside the tire and pull the innertube out all around, except where the valve stem goes through the rim. Pump some air into the tube and listen for the leak. You will probably hear it right away, but if you don't, gently brush you fingers over the surface of the tube. The leak will get louder when the little jet of air hits your finger. A dollar bill or a piece of paper may work even better. You can even try  
putting your face close to various parts of the tube and seeing if you can feel the air on your cheek or eyelids. If none of this has worked, pour some water on it and look for bubbles. If you don't have any water, get creative. Don't get too creative.

Patch the leak as you normally would, but before you put the tube back in the tire, explore the inside of the tire in the area where you found the leak. Make sure that whatever punctured your tire is not still
there. Examine the outside of the tire for any little slices where a tiny piece of glass might have worked its way in to the tire until it punctured the tube. You will often find the glass still in the cut. Dig it out.

Other flat-fixing tips:
If you can find the leak, using your eyes and ears, while the tube is still in the tire, you only have to pull off the section of tire bead where the leak is, instead of all the way around the tire.

Before stuffing the tube back into the tire, pump in just enough air that it holds its shape. This will keep the tube from folding or twisting as it is put back in. Once it is in place, though, let all the air out; you'll find it easier to get the bead of the tire back on the rim if the tube is completely deflated.

If you do need to replace a tube during a ride, and there isn't a nearby bike shop, you can probably find 16" and 20" tubes at Target, KMart, Walmart, Toys'R'us, or any other place that sells kids' bikes.

 

BikeE Tires Available
Primo, CST and Maxxis tires are perfect for the BikeE. We offer an assortment of tires for the BikeE that allow for different types of riding.

BikeE tires:
16x1.35 Primo Comet 85 PSI
16x1.5 CST 90 PSI
16x1.75 Kenda Krisp
20x1.35 Primo Comet 100 PSI
20x1.75 CST 90 PSI
20x1.75 Kenda Krisp
20x1.95 Primo V-Monster 65 PSI

 20" Tire Source   16" Tire Source

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